皱褶在女装设计中的运用(歌特洛丽塔风格的运用为例).doc

摘要:中国民间蕴藏着丰富的服饰文化资源，是我国现代服装设计取之不竭的灵感来源。此次论文研究了中国裙装中的造型和装饰细节-----褶皱，探讨其文化和艺术价值以及对我国现代服装设计的借鉴作用。重点分析了褶皱的性质和装饰特真，并且从形式美的角度探讨其对现代二者融合共同构成了服饰中皱褶的效用价值。

　　　褶的含义是衣裙折叠所长生的纹痕，皱的含义是因物体表面紧缩或揉捏而形成的纹路。服饰上的褶皱是服装造型中常用的面料塑形手法，是改变面料原有型台属性和面貌特征的重要手段之一，一般将面料进行有序或随意自然的揉捏，叠加或者堆砌，似的平面的面料具有立体效果。从平面到立体, 褶皱的不同表现贯穿于从面料的设计到服装的造型变化的整个过程, 在服装造型中具有特殊性、多样性以及不可代写论文替代性。在实际创作过程中, 应结合功能主义与唯美主义, 更好地运用褶皱来表达服装造型。

关键词：褶皱，堆砌，立体感，叠加，服装

Abstract:Folk costumes rich cultural resource, is a modern clothing design an inexhaustible source of inspiration. Of the Chinese folk dress in shape and decorative details --- fold, and discuss its cultural and artistic value as well as our reference in modern clothing design. Analyzed the shape and decorative features of folds, and from the perspective of formal beauty of their design concept of modern clothing; found that the traditional dress in the folds of practical and aesthetic value is one of the important cultural development of modern dress performance of meaning. The combination of the common form of traditional dress in the folds of the utility value. 

　　　Fold is the meaning of dress patterns produced by folding marks; wrinkle is the  meaning of surface constraints due to the formation of lines or kneading. Dress in costumes on the fold is commonly used in fabric shaping approach is to change the fabric properties and appearance characteristics of the original form an important means, generally orderly or random natural fabric of kneading, stack or pile, which a plane The fabric has a three-dimensional effect 。From to sculpture, performance throughout the different folds from the fabric design to the clothing style changes throughout the process, the garment has a special shape, diversity, and irreplaceable. In the actual creation process, should be combined with functionalism and aestheticism, better use of the fold to express costumes.

Key words：Fold，Pile ，Three-dimensional， Superposition

　　　可以这样说，皱褶服装使机织成衣具备了针织服饰的优点。可称为是服装研发中的一枝奇葩。如果厂家能在在面料肌理图案的运用结款式设计不断推陈出新，必然具有良好的市场前景。

　　　通过此次的创作设计，使自己深入认识到设计与成衣的紧密关系。一个好的设计师不仅仅需要设计的创新理念，也要有较丰富的成衣经验，只有把设计理念同实际的成衣工艺和人体结构相结合，才能设计出好的作品。同时，我体会到创作设计是一次美妙的成长过程，通过这个过程可以使自己去了解更多的东西，不同的文化、不同的国度、不同的人群、不同的思想、不同的时尚概念，来发现许多新问题，思考并解决这些问题，从而在自己服装设计的道路上有一个层次的提高。

　　　服装设计和创作也是要靠积累和学习大量的知识才能有所作为的，一切的灵感和创意的突破和成功，背后的心血是知识的积淀，也是人生的积淀。